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Author Topic: Three Basic Techniques for Fishing High Water  (Read 289 times)
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Kevin
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« on: May 26, 2011, 08:50:07 AM »

THREE BASIC TECHNIQUES FOR HIGH WATER

BY JOHN BERRY

Despite a temporary reprieve we received this past weekend caused by high water on Crooked Creek and the Buffalo River, we are in for several months of very high generation. High water is a great time to go fishing. The flows are more constant, there is a constant smorgasbord of tasty morsels for the trout to feed on and the big fish are not nearly as skittish.

 

I must admit that, when I first moved here eleven years ago and began guiding full time, I was a bit intimidated by high water. Over time I came to realize that high water was actually easier to navigate than low water. There are a fewer rocks to dodge and it is not as hard on your propellers.

 

The most basic and productive technique to use on high water is to drift brightly colored San Juan worms (red, hot fluorescent pink or cerise) or eggs (peach or orange) under a strike indicator. To get these flies down to the bottom with the equivalent of seven or eight full generators, you will have to use a substantial amount of weight attached to a long leader/tippet combination. I am using twelve to fourteen foot leader/tippet combinations ending in 5X tippets with two AAA split shots attached to the leader about eighteen inches up from the fly. You can increase the effectiveness of this rig by attaching a dropper to the bend of the hook on the worm or egg with an eighteen inch tippet. Consider using a copper John, zebra midge or pheasant tail nymph. To float all of this weight, I am using a large Thingamabobber strike indicator. I am casting this with a nine foot five weight rod.

 

This is an ungainly rig to cast. The trick is to keep the back cast high and make sure that it cast has plenty of time to straighten out behind you before beginning your forward cast. The top rod manufacturers (Sage, Hardy and others) are currently making some new rods that will aid in this process. Several have introduced ten or even eleven foot rods. The basic idea is to keep the cast higher. Line manufacturers are also joining in. Scientific Anglers has its nymph line and Rio has its strike indicator line. Both feature long bellies to aid in turning over the heavy split shot and aids in mending the lines.

 

At low water, the trout are concentrated in the main channel. As the river rises they generally migrate to the banks where the current is a bit lighter. The trick is to maneuver the boat so that it drifts downstream backwards parallel to the bank. The problem is that the boat handler is pretty busy and it is hard to fish if you are constantly steering the boat. I recommend that you do not use a drag chain to keep you straight in over three generators and never on the Norfork (they are illegal there). They could get caught on the bottom and drag the bow of the boat down causing you to sink. As you drift downstream you cast your rig out toward the bank. It is imperative that you mend your line frequently in order to achieve a perfect drag free drift. When the indicator goes down, quickly set the hook. Fish on!

 

Another good technique is to bang the bank with large articulated streamers. This is the most effective way to target big browns and is most effective in heavy water. The trick is to use heavy sink tip lines (250 grain or heavier with a thirty foot sinking section). These lines are extremely tough to cast and will require an eight weight rod and a strong arm. My brother, Dan, a Federation of Fly Fishers Certified Casting Instructor says that if he wanted to work that hard, he would dig a ditch.

 

The flies used are large and have some pretty creative names like butt monkey, sex dungeon or circus peanut. The trick is to get them down in the water column. Rather than using a leader, most anglers just use a short (three foot) heavy tippet (2X or larger) to prevent the fly from riding up.

 

Here again, the basic premise is to drift downstream parallel to the bank. You cast right up on the bank and strip the line in as you drift. You need to vary the retrieve (slow to fast) to determine what the fish want. You will feel the strike. With heavy tippet, a big fly and a heavy rod you can manhandle a big brown with ease.

 

Finally, there is dry fly fishing. We still have caddis hanging around and the sulphurs are beginning to come off. In a month or so the grass hopper action should pick up. In addition, this is the year, when the cicadas hatch out. This only happens every thirteen years and these are large morsels for eager trout. They are large dark insects that can be imitated with Chernobyl ants or stimulators that have been darkened with a black Sharpie pen.

 

Here again, all of the action is alongside the bank. Look for softer water with little current and keep your eyes peeled for any top water activity. Cast near the bank and concentrate on achieving a perfect drag free drift. This requires some serious casting skills but can be quite rewarding. I like to carry an extra rod rigged up with a dry fly so that my clients can quickly react to an unexpected hatch.

 

As you can see there are plenty of ways to fish high water. Choose one or more techniques that suite your fancy and catch some trout.
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« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2011, 07:54:21 AM »

When I fish high water I use 1/124 jig in a size 10.
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